THALI

CAPE TOWN

When chef Kitchen first opened, it offered something slightly new: outstanding, fine-dining quality food presented in a thoroughly laid-back way – no reservations; no fussy service. It turned out to work very well for Capetonians. Now maestro Liam Tomlin has recreated that experience with an Indian lilt in Gardens.The Thali menu is brief: there’s no à la carte option, only tapas for two (R650). We consent, and the show begins.It kicks off beautifully with chaat, which is designed to replicate the kind of street-food snack served in India. We tuck into a pile of crisp, perfect poppadoms, dipping them into the little cup of spiced potato and chickpeas. My partner – an architect – has complaints about the structural integrity of the poppadoms, but when we do manage to scoop some up, the curry is sweet and delicate.

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